Norway: Hurtigruten from Svolvær to Kirkenes

travel time: February 2025

In Svolvær, the Hurtigruten ship arrives quite late, so we boarded at 21:30. The check-in process was quick and effortless - we simply showed our passports, and in return, we received an envelope containing our key card and all the essential information for our journey.

After dropping our things off in the small cabin, we headed straight outside, hoping to catch a glimpse of the northern lights. Unfortunately, luck wasn’t on our side that night. A faint green glow shimmered behind the clouds, but the thick cloud cover obscured the full spectacle. Still, the anticipation of the journey ahead kept our spirits high as we sailed into the Arctic night.

Tromsø

By early afternoon the next day, we arrived in the harbor of Tromsø, where we had a four-hour stop to explore the town. Our first destination was Polaria, an Arctic-themed aquarium home to various fish and, most notably, playful seals. We were lucky to catch the afternoon seal training session, where we got to watch these fascinating animals in action - it was an absolute delight!

Afterward, we set off on a journey to visit the iconic Arctic Cathedral. The walk was quite long, but as the sun began to set, we admired the golden colors painting the town, capturing plenty of photos while crossing the bridge to the other island. The cathedral itself is a striking modern structure that stands out beautifully against the backdrop of Tromsø’s cityscape.

Back on the boat, we took a short rest, but as soon as darkness fell, we headed outside - and were immediately greeted by the first glimpse of northern lights. Our dinner slot was at 8:30 pm, and while we enjoyed the meal, we couldn’t help but feel a little anxious about what we might be missing outside. As soon as we finished eating, we rushed back out onto the deck - and between 10 and 11 pm, we were rewarded with the most incredible northern lights display. The auroras danced across the sky, swirling and shifting in front of and around the boat. It was a truly magical experience, one that left us in complete awe.

North Cape

Our journey to the North Cape began in the harbor of Honningsvåg, where we boarded a bus that took us all the way to one of the northernmost points in Europe. The cape is a vast, windswept plateau, standing about 300 meters above the sea, and is home to the famous globe monument.

Since this excursion was organized through the Hurtigruten, we arrived along with around 200 other people, making the site quite crowded at first. However, after about 45 minutes, most visitors headed back to the North Cape Center, leaving the monument nearly empty. For the last half-hour, we had the place almost to ourselves, allowing us to fully take in the remote atmosphere.

Back on the ship in the afternoon, we relaxed and admired the stunning Arctic landscapes passing by. As darkness fell, the northern lights began to shimmer across the sky once again. With our 8:30 PM dinner slot, we found ourselves anxiously glancing outside, worried we might miss the most spectacular part of the show. The anticipation made it hard to fully enjoy the three-course meal served that night.

In the end, though, there was no reason to worry. By the time dinner started, the auroras had already faded, and the most intense display had happened earlier in the evening. 

Kirkenes

At around 9 am, the boat arrived in Kirkenes, marking the end of our Hurtigruten journey. Since our flights weren’t until the next day, we had a full day to explore Kirkenes and its surrounding areas.

Wanting to make the most of our time, we spontaneously decided to rent a car so we wouldn’t be confined to the city limits. Luckily, Sixt had a vehicle available, and after dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we set off.

Our first stop was the Norway-Russia border. While there wasn’t much to see, it was still fascinating to stand at this unique geopolitical boundary. Afterward, we headed back into town to visit the “Grenselandmuseet”, a museum that offers deep insights into the region’s history, particularly during World War II. We spent quite some time reading through the exhibits and admiring the artifacts on display, immersing ourselves in the area's past.

In the afternoon, we took some time to unwind, making the most of our hotel’s pool and sauna - a perfect way to relax after days of adventure.

For dinner, we chose an Asian restaurant and enjoyed a delicious Thai meal. Feeling reenergized, we decided to venture out of town one last time, hoping to catch a final glimpse of the northern lights. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side - clouds thickened as the night went on, and we only managed to see a faint glow of the famous green lights.

The Hurtigruten Experience

After the cloudy, rainy weather we had on the Lofoten Islands (read about it here), our journey along the Norwegian coast with Hurtigruten felt like a stroke of luck. We were treated to blue skies and sunshine during the day and clear, starry nights - perfect condition s for spotting the northern lights. To top it off, the sea remained calm, ensuring a smooth and relaxing experience on board.

It’s worth mentioning that the average age of passengers on the Hurtigruten seemed to be somewhere between 65 and 75. But that didn’t take away from our enjoyment - quite the opposite! There was so much to see and do, both during the day and at night, that boredom never really set in. And for those wanting to stay active, the ship even had a gym and a whirlpool to pass the time.

When we booked the trip, the only cabin type left had an obstructed view, meaning we had a lifeboat right in front of our window, with just a glimpse of the sky or the walking deck below. However, in all honesty, we hardly spent any time in our cabin - just enough to sleep and change into warmer clothes before heading back outside. There were plenty of other great spots on board to spend time, whether it was out on deck, in the bakery, the café, or the bar.